- Film
- Photo Paper
- Chemicals
- Developer
- Fixer
- Stop Bath
- Hypo Clear
When you get into the darkroom you need to remove the film from the cassette. Load the film onto a metal or plastic film reel. Either one is fine. You need to place the loaded reel in the film tank and cover it. You may turn on the light after. The film is now in a light tight container. Now you begin processing. First, set up your chemicals which include a film developer, a stop bath, a fixer with hardener, and a hypo eliminator bath. You need to make sure that the temperature of the chemicals is carefully controlled. The chemicals are affected by the speed of the film and the temperature of the developer. Next you have to pour developer into the open part of the sealed film tank and cover it. Leave it there for how ever long you are required to. When your done, take the lid off the sealed film tank and pour it out. Now pour running water into the film tank for one minute to stop development. It's time to use a fixer with hardener to fix the image to where it can be viewed in normal light. It will take somewhere around 5 to 10 minutes. After fixing, you remove the tank cover completely and let the film settle in cold running water for 5 minutes. Now you need to remove all traces of the fixer to avoid the appearance of white spots on your negatives. Then pour in a tankful of Hypo eliminator and agitate for 2 minutes. Finally you wash it for another 5 minutes. Now pull the film out of the tank and hang the film up to dry in a dust-free area. The film should be done drying after a couple hours.
Definitions
1. Contact sheet- a photographic image produced from film.
2. Agitation- keeping a chemical moving.
3. Enlarger- a specialized transparency projector used to produce photographic prints for film.
4. Developer- a solution used for developing a film or photographic paper.
5. Stop Bath- an acid rinse for stopping the action of a developer before fixing a negative or print.
6. Fixer- removes the undeveloped silver iodide from the emulsion.